True to the weatherman’s forecast, this morning started out with rain.
Lots of it.
The reality is they can use it here – believe it or not, things are looking a little dry and in order for the world-famous gardens here to look their best, you do need some rain (even succulents need water from time to time).
By about 11am, the rain had stopped and things looked to be clearing. We decided to take a morning stroll into town and were pleasantly surprised that on a Sunday of a holiday week end, most things were open. You have to remember here that things here are not like Elora. A Sunday of a long week end here generally means to shop keepers that they can be closed more!
Anyway, we were in town getting some bread and Paul reminded me that there was supposed to be a big outdoor market in Beaulieu Sur Mer today. The sky had cleared and so we decided to go home for a bit of lunch and then on to the market. As we walked home (in long pants, shoes, socks and a pull over draped over our shoulders) it got hotter and hotter... and the intensity of the sun became almost unbearable in this garb.
As soon as we got back to the apartment it was time for a quick change into lighter clothing and sandals. After a lunch of a bunch of left overs (I love eating up all that sort of stuff), we took the train to Beaulieu.
Arriving at the station, we were greeted by a huge banner that proclaimed the sale today (even noting the date, April 29th) at the port. We made our way down to the port and…
Nothing. Nada. Nyente.
WTF? What happened? We really can’t tell. The only thing we think must have happened was that due to the early morning rain, it must have got cancelled. By this time, though, the sun was high in the sky and it was a beautiful. So, 16 Euros later (the round trip train fare for 2), there we were.
Guide books describe the village of Menton as sedate. Therefore, Beaulieu sur Mer on a Sunday is moribund. Every single shop, bar and restaurant was closed, save for the ones in the cabanas along the port (and we had all ready eaten our lunch anyway!).
It did turn out to be a good day to window shop and check out all the real-estate windows (Imagine that!) for pricing. You must keep in mind that Beaulieu is the train stop for Cap Ferrat (see my po$ting on the Cap from last year), so everything is even more expen$ive than normal.
But we, of course, love the place.
The good news was that despite the weatherman, we were able to take up a lot more sun than we thought we were going to get.
We had a wonderful home-made supper of a green salad, lentil de Puy (which I cooked classically with carrots, onions and bay) and fillet steak with 3 peppercorn sauce. I paired it with a 2010 Medoc “L’Alee du Roy,” from Bordeaux – and the cassis/cherry tones went wonderfully. Dessert came from the patisserie; Tart au citron meringue and “choux,” a profiterole filled simply with a delicious pastry cream.
The day didn’t turn out so bad after all!
Weather: Clouds and hazy sunshine with a high of 22C
Today's photos:
Rain drops on peachy orange rose, Menton
Rolls Royce in the parking lot of Beaulieu harbour
A side chapel in Sacre Coeur Church, Beaulieu
Private Boules Club, Beaulieu
The wrong end of a pug (she wouldn't turn around for me!), Menton (in France Pugs are called "Carlins")
We have been coming to the French Riviera every year for about 8 years now. One of the neat things (although common everywhere, I suppose) is that the place keeps re-inventing its self.
I hate to sound food-obsessed, but one of the new things we discovered today was a vegetarian restaurant. It has a bit of a strange name – The Loving Hut - but it has a most agreeable location right next to the promenade and sea. We started out this morning going to the SFR store to top up my internet minutes. After getting that all sorted, we just headed west along the sea shore until we found the place (we had seen it in a visitor’s guide.
The menu had plenty of delicious things on it, but it was just a little too early to eat, so we strolled further and went to the citrus garden of the Carnoles Palace to pass some time, returning to the restaurant at about 12:15. We both had the falafel and a bottle of sparkling water. It was very good (why does food eaten outside always seem to taste better?) and the view to die for!
We decided that rather than walk all the way back (about 40 minues), we would take the train, which stops only a 2 minute walk from our apartment. It was only after buying our tickets that we discovered we had missed the most recent train, and now (because it’s lunch time!), the next train didn’t come until 2:01pm. Well, I wasn’t about to waste the ticket, nor spend an hour waiting on the train platform, so we……. went for a walk around the neighbourhood, where everything else was closed for lunch (and people complain about the shop hours in Elora), but we did some decent window shopping.
After an afternoon of lazing on the patio (sigh), we headed off for pizza for supper (naughty boys, eating out twice in one day!). However, when we got to the pizzeria – the patio was enclosed and it was soooo hot in there we couldn’t stand it. Off to our restaurant Port Garavan, for a sumptuous “Grand Frito Misto,” easten amongst the yachts.
The Port Garavan restaurant occupies the space that was once out most favourite restaurant in the world, Sotto le Stele, now sadly gone. But our meal there tonight was scrumptious and the atmosphere wonderful.
Tuesday May 1st is a European holiday (May day), so Menton has been invaded by a stream of Italians (we’re right on the Italian border), who swell the population from 10,000 to 30,000. Everything is at a premium – parking, seats in a restaurant, you name it.
We want to wish Don, Anthea and Marlena a safe trip to Europe when they come to Rome for the start of their 3 week trip. I think they leave Monday night.
We had hazy skies today and a high of 27C. Yes, I said 27C. The winds have whipped up again, too!
Today’s photos:
Loving Hut Vegetarian Restaurant
Le Grand Frito Misto - mixed Calamari and giant shrimps lightly coated and deep fried, served with fleur de sel and saffron thread, accompanied by Pomme Frites and the house rose.
Port Garavan Restaurant
Port Garavan Patio - right in the Marina amid the yachts!
After yesterdays posting that was so long it should have been divided in chapters, I’m just going to keep it short today.
We had a stunning day today of just a gentle breeze (the hurricane force winds of the last 10 days or so disappeared today), cloudless skies and a high of 24C – the warmest day yet.
After all the hustle and bustle of yesterday, it was nice to just head out to the market and do our shopping, stop at the patisserie for a treat and then meander on home again. We spent one of “those” afternoons again, just sitting in the sun reading, doing puzzle books, napping…
We did get into the usual Friday brocante today. I was REALLY tempted by several items, all of which Paul nixed (he’s feeling poor today after yesterday’s lunch). I’m not going to die without then, but I find in these things, I usually get my way….
We noticed that the 1st of May brocante (May day is a holiday here) is set for Tuesday, so we'll be hunting for treasure!
Today’s photos:
A boat out at sea just off our balcony
Champagne and artisan made potato chips for an aperitif
Rose bushes in full bloom at the police station
Our view every time we walk out the front door of our building
The Mirazur is home to Chef Mauro Colegreco, an Argentinean who has transplanted himself to this wonderful place. Chef has recently been named the best in France, and the restaurant is rated as one of the top 50 in the world.
It did not disappoint.
This dining experience was my 45th birthday present from Paul. He sure has something to live up to for the future!
Upon entry, we were greeted by a wonderful hostess who escorted us from the front foyer up a sweeping spiral staircase to the mezzanine level. There an unparalleled view of Garavan bay, across the sea from Italy to the old town awaited us (admittedly, it is almost the exact same view as from our apartment, just up a little higher!). We were seated at (what we think!) was their finest table, me facing South West towards town and Paul South East, overlooking Queen Astrid’s Villa (the Maria Serena) and the Italian coast line. Every staff member that we passed between the door and our table said good day to us in a discrete and polite way.
Once comfortably seated and given a few moments to get accustomed to our surroundings, one of the two Sommeliers appeared and offered us some champagne. We were given a choice and both opted for the Taittinger, which was delicious (surprise). The other choice was Billecart Salmon and would have been every bit as good. We were also provided with a bottle of sparkling water, and left for some time to just take it all in.
We were overjoyed with the décor (we have peeked in many times before). It is a modern version of 1930’s deco chic; white leather chairs with contrasting black lacquered wood, crisp white linen tablecloths and napkins, white walls, natural marble floors, blue striped glass chargers and pale blue water glasses. Clear glass wine glasses, and the most stream-lined cutlery I think I have ever seen! The windows were shaded with a double layer of sleek grey on black retractable shades, which were open all the way to take in the glorious view.
Shortly, we were presented with a selection of amuse bouche to get us started. This consisted of “truffles” of shrimp bisque (hot liquid (not congealed or semi solid, but actual soup!) shrimp bisque somehow encapsulated and deep fried in an outer coating; a planche of agate stone on which sat lemon-flavoued tulles, topped with a scoop of lemon cream; and Norwegian salmon nestled on a rice chip. The presentation was just marvelous!
While enjoying these creations, the Maitre d’ appeared with our menus and took the time to discuss the various options that we had available to us. We could have A la Carte, a Formule (our choice of entree & plat or plat & dessert from the menu), the Dejeuner (entrée, plat & dessert from the menu), the Menu Decouverte (6 courses, Chef’s choice, none of the dishes on the menu), Degustation (8 courses, as above), or the Carte Blanche (10 courses, as above). We discussed the merits of each, and decided we must be willing to expand our horizons, so we selected the Menu Decouverte. The Maitre d’ confirmed that we understood that the courses are all a “surprise” and completely at the discretion of the Chef. We told him we understood.
And so it began.
Not knowing what we were going to be getting to eat did make wine selection a bit of crap-shoot though. We were advised by the second Sommelier (an exceptionally handsome (and young!) red-headed Frenchman, who seemed to be the only one of the staff who did not speak English), that our main would most likely be seafood, and therefore he did suggest a white. I inquired about rose and he seemed interested in my daring and confirmed that there were several exceptional choices that would work well (the wine list was impressive, extensive and very accommodating). Paul left it to me, and knowing Chef’s passion for local ingredients, I decided to go terroir and selected a bottle of 2010 Rimauresq Cru Classe Cotes de Provence. The Sommelier agreed with my selection and presently arrived with the bottle.
The wine drank beautifully right from opening. It was slightly dry, less fruity and less full-bodied than most roses, and worked exceptionally well with all of the courses that were to come, complementing each in a distinctive and different way. The colour was ravishing!
To help get us started, the server appeared with a warm loaf of home-made sour dough bread. It was accompanied by the Chef’s own ginger and lemon infused olive oil for dipping. We pulled the loaf apart with zeal and were soon mopping up the sumptuous drops of oil and savouring each bite.
When the appropriate time came, our server appeared with our first course.
It was a delicious salad composed of marinated fennel with shavings of heirloom carrots (both orange and purple). At the table, the server poured over a carrot juice reduction as the dressing. It was exquisite! The gentle anise flavour of the fennel and the sweetness of the carrots was an amazing juxtaposition on the tongue. They were all of a uniform crispness, which was pleasantly satisfying, and served chilled just slightly below room temperature – just enough to keep the vegetables crisp without being so cold as to jar your teeth or deaden your taste buds. The wine was excellent with it.
The next course was an absolutely gorgeous plate. It was a composition of asparagus shavings, grapefruit sections and green apple, interspersed with tender greens. The whole was brought together by a plated sweet caramel made from the reduced apple juice, accompanied with a slightly sour crème fraiche. For a garnish, chef chose beautiful purple borage flowers. This course was a real feast for the eyes as well as the taste buds. The asparagus was raw (it had not even been blanched) and the shavings were the exact same thickness as the apple slices, a small detail, but one the mouth could distinguish and a courtesy to the diner. The bitterness of the granny smith apple, the sour of the grapefruit and the slightly nutty freshness (and taste of spring) of the asparagus interplayed beautifully. The plate was served room temperature, for the ultimate flavour.
This was all accompanied by a light and most unusual savoury roll made with almonds (again, enhancing the nuttiness of the asparagus).
The next course (which turned out to be my absolute favourite amongst all the delicious things we ate) was a bowl full of textures. It was potatoes done three ways, roasted, crispy-fried and crystallized (how did he do that???), with morels, sweet peas, quinoa, spring onions and parmesan cream. It was accented by herbed foam, fresh snipped herbs and edible flowers. I truly was blown away by this dish. It was served warm, and almost comes off as a sort of vegetable stew. As I say, while the taste was amazing, everything was a different texture in the mouth, and it was heaven. The graininess of the quinoa was subtle, while the sweet peas popped and the wholesomeness of the potatoes was satisfying. As many of you know, I’m really the biggest fan of parmesan – but the smooth cream – the carrier of all the rest of the textures - was just a subtle back drop for all the other things that were going on. The morels almost disappeared in the dish, but presented a wonderful earthiness accenting the potatoes, while the onion offered a sharp cut through the heaviness of the cream. This dish was complete genius and is one that I will definitely try to re-create on my own. It was wholesome, satisfying and could become a sort of “nouveau comfort food” if I could pin its composition down.
Following this came the main protein course. It was a piece of perfectly fried Bonito tuna fillet, accompanied by a mixed green and radish salad and pureed sweet peas. The fish was delicately seasoned with nothing more than black pepper and fleur de sel. The flesh was firm with a very mild flavour, and thankfully, Chef served it cooked through, but not dry, resisting the North American ideal of raw inside (which I just hate). The pea puree was a bit curious with the fish, however its delicacy matched the flavour perfectly. The uncomplicated salad was most pleasant – but I found that the radish in it to be a little strong given the overall mild taste of the dish. It was, however, perfectly prepared and a delight to eat!
We then had the pleasure of being served a wonderful palette cleanser, which was a fennel jelly, topped with orange granita and a scoop of mascarpone mousse. The first spoonful seemed a bit odd to me, but as you continued to eat, the flavours blossomed. It was wonderfully palatable and did the job it was supposed to do.
Next came our “pre-dessert.” What a delight! An unsweetened molten chocolate cake broken into pieces, accented with bitter-sweet white chocolate mousse buttons and a quenelle of crème fraiche – all accompanied by dark chocolate craqelleure. This desert was such a surprise, because our eyes told us to expect something really sweet – but it was a lover in disguise, the chef purposely avoided the ideal of sweet and built the flavours around the natural bitter flavour of chocolate. It was a stoke of brilliance on his behalf and a really surprising treat for the diner!
Our final course was an amazing presentation of macaroons Mentonnaise (lemon flavoured macaroons), agrume scented fruit jelly, white chocolate “chips” (sweetened this time) and mousse filled chocolates. Scrumptious – and the lemon items balanced out the sweet.
We finished the meal with a cup of French coffee (espresso, really).
This was a glorious meal in a gorgeous restaurant. I can’t believe how lucky we are – just a pair of guys from Elora, to have had the honour to dine here.
But guess what? The story isn’t over….
After the bill had been paid and we were leaving, we decided to be a bit nosy and check out the banquet facilities on the lower floor, as well as check out the garden as described in the promotional pamphlet and on the web.
When we were in the banquet facilities, Chef Colagreco actually came out to meet us! He spent about 15 minutes with us, telling us about his restaurant and graciously posing for photos with us. He invited us to “make ourselves at home” and spend as long as we wanted in his garden. We were so honoured to meet him (and know that our meals had been prepared by him, not just created by him!) and be at his restaurant today. I know this is a long post, but this is one of the most memorable things that has ever happened to us – a meal in a double Michelin Star rated restaurant!
Formidable!
As intoned yesterday, I have been urging Paul to get up and out of our little domaine (as lovely as it is!). I think his little vertigo spell upset him more than he lets on, which I do understand. It is frightening to be in unfamiliar surroundings and maybe not feel 100% - and definitely to be afraid of loosing your balance and falling over and not knowing how long it will take to recover. But he seems well and in good spirits, so we decided to give it a try.
We decided to play it a bit safer, though, and went to Beaulieu Sur Mer and St Jean/Cap Ferrat instead of Antibes. You can read about these 2 places in my postings from last year.
As we strolled around the beautiful places, admiring the villas both from the belle epoch and modern, many with wonderful gardens, we couldn’t help but observe how very sad it is that the appearance is that those who have this don’t really seem to appreciate it. As you look closely at these magnificent places, the vast majority (especially the villas) are closed up tight (with mega security) and there is absolutely no-one around enjoying them. These “trophy houses” are nothing more than empty halls.
So sad for things that are so beautiful.
We treated ourselves to lunch out today in Beaulieu – and decided to go to the same place that we went last year. It was sort of a funny encounter. We decided that we would eat outside – which was in full, direct sun. Not really a problem, as we both had #30 sun block on. The funny thing was the waiter. I mean absolutely no dis respect, and I don’t make fun of people. However, after sitting down, we waited for AGES for him just to bring us menus and take a drink order. His eyes pointed in different directions and I swear to you that for the longest time he didn’t see us!
Today we had mostly clear skies with the odd cloud. Strong winds remain and the high was 21C. Just lovely.
Today’s photos:
Map of Beaulieu Sur Mer
A view out to sea
Tripe for lunch (we chose something else!)
Paul on the steps of Lenotre's salon (That's the late David Niven's pink house in the distance, over Paul's left shoulder)
The tranquil harbour of St Jean Cap Ferrat
View of the Cap in a traffic mirror
Remember that you can click on any of my photos to see them larger!
So we have been here officially for a week now. As I said in yesterday’s blog – time seems to move a bit slower here on the Riviera, but never-the-less, hard to believe that a week has come and gone!
That being said, I do believe that its time to start expanding our horizons here a bit. I mean, how many days can you just laze around on a patio with warm, sunny skies, a gentle breeze and read and eat good food? Sheesh – we’re far from super-do-nothing sort of guys.
I don’t know if it will happen or not, but I’m goading Paul into going to Antibes tomorrow (about a 1 hr train ride from here – no transfers). Antibes is the former Greek colony of Antipolis and has a nice marina, walled city, Napoleonic era fortress, and lots of good shopping and more. If we do it, great. If not, so be it.
I’m really getting the hang of my new camera. One of the things that I didn’t think about when I set my budget for it was the fact that I won’t be paying film or processing fees in the future. I love the flexibility of snapping as many photos (and reviewing them on the spot) as I like and not have to worry about processing. I’m only posting and facebooking a fraction of what I’m snapping. I also find it a pleasant way to spend the evening; downloading them onto my laptop and editing them.
Today was supposed to be raining in the morning, and although we awoke to clouds, before 10:30am they were gone and we had ANOTHER day of pure sunshine but high winds. The waves continue to pound the shore and rumble like thunder, the high was just 19 today.
Today’s photos:
Villa hidden behind high walls
Passion flowers in bloom
Minarets on "The Orient"apartment building
Delicious Tarte Tatain for tonight's supper
Penis pasta for sale in the Italian market just across the border
One of the things that I love about Menton is the unhurried pace of life. Even though we’re on holidays, the time here trickles by in a slow way… the sun stays on the balcony for almost the entire day, we don’t get in a rush to go places (except when we’re running late for the train!), and if we feel like doing nothing (which it looks like a great portion of the locals do), then that’s exactly what we do.
I am sorry that I did not blog yesterday, but my pay in advance internet ran out of minutes – and the store is not open on Sundays(!) to recharge, so it had to wait until today.
On Sunday (before the minutes ran out) we had a mind to go to Nice today to the antique market, but when the minutes ran out, we decided to just stay close to home and enjoy the amazing weather that we’ve been having. We had a simple lunch of tuna salad, a green salad and some bread. We spent the afternoon reading and sunning on the balcony (with intermittent glances of either the old town or of Italy, sigh.), and fantasizing about what we would do with this apartment if we owned it.
That conversation was egged on by an earlier window shopping stop today (during our morning promenade) at a kitchen design place that also specialized in things like hide-away beds and other devices to make living in small spaces perfectly comfortable. We have worked out a way to get an extra “hidden” bed in this apartment for a second couple should the need arise.
Anyway, another lazy day is drawing to a close here (it’s 7pm). The surf quieted down today, along with the wind, but unfortunately now both are back with a vengeance, and the weatherman is calling for rain (yes, rain – not showers) tomorrow.
That might be okay, as I may have got a few minutes too much sun today.
I understand that there is a chance of snow at home in Elora today.
Enough said.
Today’s weather: Sunny with just a few puffy clouds and a high of 23C.
Photos:
Decorative friezes on local villas
Foie Gras National Silver Medalists on the food street (For Sharon Burke)
Watch out for the cats!
Mourning Dove love...
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| Waiting for the train to Carnoles (self portrait) |
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| Mediterranean Pine on Cap Martin |
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| Prize Winning Croissants at Frederic Rey's Bolangerie |
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| Serious Cycling on the Riviera! |
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| Today's menu at the Festival Plage |
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| Flora at the Festival Plage |
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| Skin Suits drying in the sun |
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| Lost Pussy on the Boulevard du Garavan |
