Saint Michael and the Quiche

Legend has it that Saint Michael is the defender of Heaven. He is always portrayed defeating Satan by standing on him and slaying him with a lance or a sword.

I don't know about all that - but Saint Michael is also the Patron Saint of Menton. The Basilica (a Basilica is a church of the highest order in Roman Catholicism, IE Saint Peter's Basilica in Rome) of St. Michael here in Menton is of mammoth proportions. There has been a place of worship on the spot since 1619(!), although the church as we see it today was built around 1645 and renovated many times in its 365 subsequent years.

From the outside, it is approached from Garavan bay by a double set of criss-crossing stairs that take you up the mountainside. Each step of those stairs, as well as the square in front of the church, has been paved in geometric designs of individual pebbles (sorted by colour and size). The square its self is made up of the stairs on the east (with a magnificent view of the sea - see today's video), the Basilica on the south (Interestingly, it does not face east), the church of the White Penitents on the west, and some religious buildings & houses on the north.

The exterior of the building (it could use a good cleaning/painting) is asymmetrical & is of a restrained baroque design with a huge campanile rising up into the sky, which is probably the most photographed thing in Menton, and is as much a symbol of the city as the Menonnaise lemon. It's an unusual tower, as the base starts off as a square and finishes at the top as a circular structure. It houses a bell that rings off the hours (twice, like my comtoise clock at home) and half hours, and despite the noise of the Riviera, can be heard anywhere in town (it's especially clear up on our roof top - it is also dead accurate with wrist watch!).

Inside, the restraint that was reserved for the facade was thrown to the wind... the interior is a riot of baroque forms and heavy crimson draperies and crystal chandeliers. the ceiling is painted with a huge fresco of (you guessed it) St. Michael. For a baroque church its a little on the dark-side inside, though (most are painted out in white), and some of the detailing is lost because of it. But there's PLENTY of gold and gilding around to satisfy the fussiest of Popes. Speaking of which, a plaque inside commemorates a visit by Pope John Paul II in days gone by.

Despite earthquakes and wars, it has endured and stands as a testament to the faith of the people who built it (and around here, it takes YEARS to get builders to complete ANYTHING!).

As for the quiche? Well, after going to the market yesterday, I made a broccoli & cheddar (yup, you can get cheddar here) quiche that, by my own testament, rivals any that you'll find in a local boulangerie!

Day has started of gray - but we'll hope for some sun this aft!