Life as a Parisian..

I felt very Parsian today.

After the alarm went off, I got out of bed, and with every step that I took, the beautiful hardwood floors in the apartment snapped and creaked, greeting me in the dark shades of the morning light. From outside, I could hear others busily rushing off in the early hours, their shoes clopping over the cobbles and their keys rattling as they slipped them into their pockets, the doors between the courtyards slamming solidly behind them as they moved along the corridors.

Like a sort of tic tac toe game, the lights in the windows across the courtyard would come on and go off as the unseen people behind them went from bedroom to kitchen to bathroom....until they finally went off for good and the people left their apartments for the daily grind.

In the afternoon, when I was home from a morning at a gallery (we went to see the Canaletto exhibit of Venetian paintings at the Maillol museum - so worth it), someone was practicing the piano - replaying the same song over and over. It wasn't tedious - it was beautiful, listening to them work through the various stanzas that were giving them trouble, each time getting a little better at it and picking up the tempo a bit...

Later this evening we attended a cooking class on the Quay de Hotel de Ville. We rode the metro at rush hour, crammed in like sardines, to the school... seeing the long, drawn faces of the workers who had had a hard day... texing... playing games and chatting on their cell phones.

I can not believe that tomorrow is our last day here. Like all travelers, I wish I was staying longer.

Day started out cloudy but ended up sunny, with a hi of about 21C.

I made this at our Parisian cooking class!

Just one example of decorative grille work that adorns many doors in the city

Cute Jack Russel standing guard at the owner's shop

Tsk - what is this world coming to? Gays in advertising!

Bas-releif of a red (North American) Indian on a set of belle epoch doors

Finally, the sun!

We had sun all day and HOT temps of about 24C.

We made the most of the day by being outside.

Today's blog: Photos.

Cooking classes tomorrow night - I'm so excited!

Horse Butcher in the Poncelet market - Whinny!

La Tour!

Symmetry around the Ecole Militaire

Dome Church - the final resting place of Napoleon

One of many gorgeous florists in the city

Paris knockers

Canada's Alanis playing at the Olympia on Nov. 26th!

Another Sunday in Paris

Well, believe it or not, it didn't rain today - and for a little while, we even saw the sun! Down side? The humidity skyrocketed! It hadn't been cold by any stretch of the imagination - just grey - so when the sun came out it got almost uncomfortable. I know, I know, I'm never happy!

Anyway - we went to the Louvre today and saw the newest wing (not a temporary exhibition, but a new addition!), which is on Islamic decorative arts. What a fabulous exhibit. They built a "building within a building" by closing one of the internal courtyards of the Louvre, as well as digging down a couple of stories.

There are carvings, glass, mosaics carpets, woodwork, metalwork, calligraphy, you name it! I took tons of pics and will put them in a facebook photo album as soon as I'm done this posting.

I have to admit that I rolled over and shut off the alarm this morning and it was going on 9am before I ever rolled out of bed, but we did manage to be to the Louvre by noon - and the line ups weren't horrendous. It is actually a really good deal for Paris - if you're 18 or under admission is FREE (Remember they charge you to use the toilet here, so free is a big deal), and admission to the permanent exhibits (including the new Islamic wing) is only11E. Think of all that you can see at the Louvre... the largest museum in the world, for only 11E!

We didn't do the whole gallery (it has a very complicated floor plan). After doing the wing we actually cut through the Tuilleries to Angelina's (to see more check out their website by clicking here) for a bite of sophisticated lunch. We must have looked good, as the Mâitre D' gave us a front and center table (or they weren't expecting Princess Stephanie of Monaco, which is probably the more accurate picture). I now regret not getting the Mont Blanc, because the chestnuts are in season, so I think we'll have to go back (believe it or not, time's running out!).

After an afternoon of enjoying this lovely Parisian day, we came home and I made us a delicious supper of beef fillet with a red wine & mushroom demi-glace, lentils du Puy classically cooked with bay, carrots & onions, and a green salad - plus we have vanilla-strawberry crepes for dessert that Paul expertly made for us! YUM! Anyway - have to tell you that I picked up an outstanding 8 YEAR OLD bottle (well, half bottle, actually)  - 2004 Château Peyrat-Fourthon Haut-Médoc, which is 60% CabSav, 36% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot - and it's FABULOUS - and I don't even really drink all that much red. The colour is so exquisitely dark that when you hold a glass up to the light you can barely see through it - yet it is smooth, mellow and gutsy!

Anyway, tomorrow's another day. Chat with you all then!

Remember, you can blow up the photos by clicking on them.

Amazing rock crystal ewer - made from 1 piece of crystal!

Decorative Islamic panels & stained glass

Beautiful fragment of porcelain from Anatolia

Oh the Humanity - crowds in the Tuilleries on a Sunday aft - looking from the Louvre down the Champs-Elysee

Waiting for our lunch at Angelina's

The elegant décor at Angelina's on the Rue du Rivoli

Gorgeous fountains in the Place de la Concorde

Saturday - I won't let it be a wash-out!

La pluie, la pluie, va-t'en !

Aller et venir d'un autre jour !

That's a literal translation of rain, rain, go away! Go and come another day!

I'm not saying that this weather is getting me down - Paris in the rain is quite extraordinarily beautiful... but I came this year with my new digicam all set to snap some wonderful pics, and it's almost impossible to hold a 'brolly, a shopping bag (or two!) and snap some pics! Sheesh! That being said, I snapped a fabulous photo of Paul in front of Notre Dame - and with a digital camera you can take as many pics as you like and not be afraid that you're going to ahve to pay for processing bad photos later.

So we've been experiencing intermittent showers EVERY DAY since we arrived, but the temp remains quite warm (today was 19C).

We went off to the Maris to the original Marriage Frere's tea shop, where we made several selections of tea to bring home with us. In usual fashion, after exiting the store, I desperately needed the facilities - but thankfully BHV HOMME (right around the corner) has relatively clean ones, although they make it almost impossible to find them (what is it with the French and their lack of toilets?). We eventually wandered in the rain from the right bank to left, infrom=nt of the hotel de Ville & across the Ille de la Cité and in front of Notre Dame. We seemed to be at a loss as to what to grab for lunch. We were in Saint Michel - which is a notorious high-price, low value, low-quality tourist feeding area. As you remember last year, we committed to NO MORE TOO EXPENSIVE BAD FOOD, so we hopped the Metro at the Sorbonne(!) and came home and made up a fine lunch from last night's left over chicken & potatoes along with a green salad.

We went out for a walk after supper at good Japanese place and I can't believe that I forgot to take my camera with me! The clouds were low in the air, obliterating the top of the Eiffel Tower, which would have made for a neat photo - and we walked back to the metro via place Concorde - a photographers dream!

Silly me - always remember the camera!

Heading out from pour Metro Station

Great sign in the Marais

Kosher Pizza in the Marais - no meat and cheese for you!

Pulpit at the church of the White Penitents

Notre-Dame - Impressive even in the rain

Paul & his parapluie - you can even see the rain drops if you look close enough! Good Camera!

Friday in Paris

I just couldn't do a gallery today.

I know that's bad news because it's Friday, and getting into a gallery on Saturday or Sunday just isn't going to happen, but I was sort of on overload after yesterday, and thought I'd like to do something else. I wanted to do a few of the touristy things that we haven't done for years, specifically go up the Eiffel Tower and visit Versailles. Today continued cloudy, though, so it sort of put the kibosh on something like that.

Initially, we were going to head out to the Italie metro stop and visit Chinatown... but Paul had second thoughts, so for a little while we played the "I dunno what do you wannna do"? game. Eventually, we hit the Metro and ended up in St. Germain des Pres. Everyone has their own part of the city that they like (why people like the Marais, I'll never know...) , and for us, it's this discrete part of town full of unusual boutiques, (more) galleries, and some very fine architecture. The Hotel Matignon (click here for more info), home of the Prime Minister of France is here, along with other mansions of equal standing and quality.

So we spent the day window shopping and walking around. We stopped into Vesuvio's for a pizza lunch and spent countless time people watching (there are some real characters here, I can tell you). It is interesting to note that we have been coming here long enough that we now say "remember when such -and-such a place was on that corner..."! After moving from the Bon Marche over the the Rue Cherche Midi, we came across a lovely and huge outdoor market selling all sorts of things, so we decided on a roast chicken, potato and lentil supper. We bought all the ingredients at the market and took them home to make up.

Turns out that was a good thing, because the TV is on the fritz (why? we didn't do anything except turn it off & on and change the chanels!). Not that we come to France to watch TV, but it does help pass the time in the late evenings.. Anyway, so we have of course been attempting to get in touch with the rental agency, but its' Friday afternoon and they are French....

So, as I say, it remained overcast today, which is a big disappointment to me, as I've been itching to use my new camera more while I'm here. The meteo says its going to stay that way all week end long :-(..., It reamins exceptionally mild, though, at about 22C!

Remember, you can blow up any of my photos by clicking on them.

Groovy glasses on the Rue du Bac!

Rose petal shoes, the ultimate!

Beautiful flowers on the Rue Cherche Midi

Poultry doesn't come any fresher than this!

Terrific optician's sign

Uh oh - not someone's Friday - the meter maid got them!

Our dining room table

Dinner is served!

A big day!

Enthused after getting Paul's luggage back safe and sound, we got up at 7am (I know, we're supposed to be on holidays!) ready to face the city and another day.

First stop today was the Pinacotheque de Paris to see the double header show of Van Gough (My favourite), Dreaming of Japan, and the fabulous wood cuts of Hiroshige: The art of Travel. The show basically compared and contrasted the 2 artists works. Different idioms but essentialy similar works made thousands of miles apart. For more about it, click here.

Afterwards we hit the super-expensive food shops like Fauchon and Hediard around La Madelaine church, for a feast for the eyes. At Hediard, I found a bottle of cognac from 1802 (Yes, I said 1802!) that was priced at E15,000! As tempting as that was, we moved on....

For some reason, my back was killing me after seeing the show (I'm beginning to sound like Paul!), but we trouped on and eventually bought a couple of sandwiches and went and enjoyed our lunch in our favourite place in Paris, the Tuilleries Gardens. There were some great photo ops and it was easy to catch metro line 1 back to Place Charles de Gaulle Etoile and up to Ternes metro to our apartment.

I gave in and crashed for a nap and by the time I woke up it was getting late to head out and do anything new!

Paul had the brainstorm that the Musee D'Orsay was open late tonight (which it is), so I made us up a pasta supper (5pm - early for Paris!) and we headed out to the gallery. I was thrilled that after 2 or 3 years of renovations, the entire building is open again, so we had access to the full permanent collection of Impressionist and Post Impressionist galleries, as well as a fascinating special exhibition on Impressionism and Fashion - a show that featured paintings and costumes (on mannequins). It was terrific to see the clothing of the era 1850's - 1900. It actually helps to make you understand how - avant garde impressionist and post impressionist art must have seemed at a time when women wore collars buttoned up to under their chins!

And so, we didn't get home until after 10pm, which is when I'm penning this note.

We had glimpses of sun through the morning, but by late afternoon it was solidly cloudy and then it rained - heavily - for about an hour. I have to tell you something, Paris in the is BEAUTIFUL and should be experienced. The temp remained very mild at about 20C.

Pinacotheque de Paris

Hediard - the Millionaire's Grocery Store

Gorgeous Fruit Displays at Hediard's

La Madelaine Church

Watching the World go by on the Rue Royale

Mirror installation in the Tuilleries

Artist at work - This IS Paris, after all!

Interior of the D'Orsay

The Art Nouveau sign for Solferino Metro Station

Un jour de pluie à Paris

Even beautiful girls cry from time to time....

We awoke to grey, rainy weather today and it has persisted all day.

We got a phone call at 7pm from ADP (Aeroports de Paris), on behalf of Air France, telling us that they were in possession of Paul's luggage and it would be delivered between 10am and 2pm. Just in the middle of the day - enough to sort of ruin a day of fun. I sent Paul out to do some grocery shopping (no sense in both of us hanging around the apartment) and at 10:45, the luggage was delivered safe and sound and complete to the apartment. Despite this set back, we are still fans of the airline!

We headed off to both BHV (Boulevard Haussman Vents) and Galleries LaFayette for a bit of retail therapy. Like all Paris institutions, they thought it was cool today (20C!), and had way excessive heat turned up - to the point where it was uncomfortable to be in there! I don't understand Europeans - or at least the French. They always complain about the high cost of energy, yet they have electric trains and turn the thermostat up into the uncomfortable range.

Anyway, we saw some great clothes and gloves and stuff, but we unfortunately didn't make a purchase... It really was THAT hot in those stores (think sauna) that you just didn't really want to be in there.

We picked up some spring rolls (Nem's, en Francais) for lunch in the food court of Galleries LaFayette and warmed them up here at the apartment for lunch, washed down with copious amounts of champagne. Actually, we've all ready gone through an entire bottle (I'm beginning to wonder if we have a problem there, but I'll put it out of my mind for now....)

Canada Goose Clothing - the HOTTEST trend in outerwear in Paris this year!

View of one of the courtyards from our living room window

The world's narrowest elevator. We can not face forward in it - our shoulders are too wide, we have to stand sideways!

Grey skies over the Paris Opera House!

Le Diner Presque Parfait (the almost perfect dinner) is on TV right now (It's just like "Come Dine With Me Canada), So we're going to watch that, and eventually walk over to Simla Hill, a FABULOUS Indian restaurant here, on Rue Balzac, for our supper. That tradition is usually topped of with a night-time stroll along the Champs de Elysee (weather depending).

More from this beautiful place tomorrow!!!!

Le Premier Jour en Paris

What a day...

After an uneventful flight YYZ to CDG, we arrived at the baggage carousel to find that Paul's luggage has gone missing! After a cat and mouse game all day of promised deliveries to our apartment, a definitive call at 8pm has informed us that there will be NO luggage tonight. I don't understand it - as they can't even seem to FIND it... Itr's not like they know it's on it's way to Mexico City or something.... it just seems to have vanished! I am now skeptical that we will ever see it. If there is any good news, between Desjardin insurance and Air France, we can spend up to $600 immediately to replace items - but it's not how we intended on spending the day :-(

We have taken a most agreeable apartment in the 17th, right on Rue Poncelette. There is a famous foodie's paradise market right on the street (more in another blog), and we are just a stone's throw from the Arc du Triomphe and Ternes metro stop. The apartment is bright and quiet (faces a courtyard on both sides!) which allows for a cross breeze. It is nicely furnished and the bed is comfy.

I'm really wiped today after the flight and all the anxiety over the luggage, so just a short note to everyone to let you all know that we have arrived safe & sound albeit short a piece of luggage!

It was sunny and 20C here today - Beautiful weather in a beautiful city!